Peter Reinhart on Bread Traversing Life and Death

Speaking of bread, here's a very interesting TEDtalk from Peter Reinhart, author of The Bread Baker's Apprentice, a book that has been on my "to read and cook by" list for a while.

For the first half, he talks through his new "epoxy" method of making a great wheat bread. But if you don't have the time, at least listen starting about halfway through where he really gets into some deeper, mystical discussions about bread baking and what makes this food special.

He says "bread is a transformational food," meaning that it goes through significant changes in form in order to reach its final state. Starting from the harvesting of wheat is death, death to any future growth it seems as the seed kernels are ground into flour. Yet it is a return to life that instigates the magic. Yeast, the leaven, reawakens the dough, and we know there is life because the dough grows. And when this purpose is fulfilled, it is the ultimate death of the same live-giving yeast that enables the dough's final transformation into bread.

Groovy stuff.



The baker is the god of his dough.

One Fresh Loaf

The more I've experimented with bread baking lately, the less I can justify purchasing it from the store. Deep down I know this is silly really, and I'll still pick up a loaf in a rush, but it's just so easy and rewarding to make bread at home.

Most importantly, bread made at home is obviously as fresh as you'll get it. After you've managed to cover your hands in sticky dough, the counter in flour-hardened dough, and your shirt/pants/face in flour, the wafting scent of nearly done bread filling your home and the delight in pulling out a loaf from the oven that has miraculously risen and finished to perfection is a beautiful thing.

From the start, making bread at home can seem daunting because each recipe, and there are millions, varies slightly not only in ingredients but in seemingly very science-y ways such as exact temperatures in the environment, specific lengths of multiple rises, certain types of yeast, and a cultural debate over whether bread prefers to rise in an oil-coated bowl or a dry one. As an amateur bread baker at best, I can say that trying my best to follow a well-tested bread recipe and not over-thinking it, i.e. fretting too much if I am unsure whether it rose exactly twice its size or for exactly 45 minutes has led to some fine results.

Before the recipes, a few memoirs to comfort the reticent baker:
How Michael Ruhlman Overcame his Fear of Yeast
Breadmaking Tips from the Smitten Kitchen
And from Trailbraising, I say, simply, always read the recipe in full before starting out, taking note of how much lapsed rise time the bread will actually need. I will bold all significant time lapses in the following recipes. The worst disappointment comes when you've started a recipe, already tasting the dream of bread in your mouth, only to discover an overnight rise is only the beginning to the process.

A Quick and Easy Loaf: English Muffin Toasting Bread 

3 cups all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. baking soda
1 Tbsp. instant yeast [I used Dry Active in a pinch and it still worked out fine]
1 cup milk
1/4 cup water
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil or olive oil
cornmeal, to sprinkle in pan

• 12 3/4 ounces King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
• 1/2 ounce sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 tablespoon instant yeast
• 8 ounces milk
• 2 ounces water
• 7/8 ounce vegetable oil or olive oil
• cornmeal, to sprinkle in pan

Instructions 

1. Whisk together the flour, sugar, salt, baking soda, and yeast in a large mixing bowl or in the food processor.

2. Combine the milk, water, and oil in a separate, microwave-safe bowl, and heat for a few minutes until it is hot but not scalding. to between 120°F and 130°F. The liquid will feel very hot (hotter than lukewarm), but not so hot that it would scald you.

3. Pour the hot liquid over the dry ingredients.

4. Beat on high or pulse for 1 minute, resulting in a very soft dough.

5. Lightly grease a loaf pan, sprinkling the bottom and sides with cornmeal to prevent sticking. Transfer the dough to the pan and level out.

6. Cover the pan with a dish cloth, and let the dough rise until it's even to slightly over the rim of the pan, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400°F.

7. Bake the bread for 20 to 22 minutes until it's golden brown. If you want to be exact, bread is typically done with the inner temperature has reached 190 to 210 degrees. Some simple, yet exotic rolls: Olive and Rosemary Rolls 1 tsp. dry active yeast 1 tsp. sugar 1 cup lukewarm whole milk 2 1/2 cups all purpose flour 1 tsp. salt 1 Tbsp. olive oil generous 1/2 cup black olives, remove the seeds 1 1/2 Tbsp. rosemary leaves all purpose flour, for kneading olive oil, for brushing Instructions 1. Mix together the yeast, sugar and milk in a bowl. Set aside in a warm place for 5 minutes or until bubbles appear on the surface. This process is called proofing. 2. Add the flour, salt and oil to the yeast mixture and mix until a smooth dough forms. Knead on a lightly floured surface for 5 minutes or until smooth and elastic, adding a little extra flour if the dough becomes too sticky. Cover with plastic wrap, set aside in a warm place for 1 hour or until doubled in size. 3. Brush a round cake pan with oil. 4. Tear the olives into pieces and knead the olives and rosemary leaves into the dough on a generously floured surface, incorporating extra flour to compensate for the wetness of the olives. Divide into 16 pieces and roll into balls. Place in the prepared pan, cover with a clean dish towel and set aside in a warm place for 45 minutes or until the dough is doubled in size. In the meantime, preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush the tops with olive oil and bake for 20-25 minutes or until golden.

And for a wow from the crowd: Grape Focaccia with Rosemary

3/4 cup warm water
2 Tbsp. milk, slightly warmed
1 1/2 tsp. sugar
1 1/4 tsp. active dry yeast
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. salt
6 Tbsp. olive oil
1 1/2 cups halved Concord, red or black grapes (no seeds please!)
1 tsp. fresh rosemary needles
2 Tbsp. raw or coarse sugar
2 tsp. coarse sea salt

Instructions
1. Stir together the water, milk, sugar, and yeast. Let the mixture sit until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add the flour, salt and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil to the yeast mixture and mix well (either in a mixer with a dough hook, in a food processor with a dough blade, or by hand with a wooden spoon). This kneading should last about 6 to 8 minutes depending on your method.
2. Brush a large bowl with a generous amount of olive oil. Scrape dough into the bowl and brush the top with additional oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rise in a cool place until it doubles in bulk, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
3. Press the dough down with a floured hand. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and divide it into two balls.
4. Brush a large baking sheet with olive oil, place the balls of dough on it and brush the top with more oil. Set it aside for 20 minutes, lightly covered with a kitchen towel.
5. After 20 minutes, dip your fingers in olive oil and press and stretch each ball of dough into a 8 to 9-inch circle shape. Cover again with the towel and let it rise for another 1 1/4 hours in a cool place.
6. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Brush tops of dough with remaining olive oil and sprinkle top with grapes, rosemary, coarse sugar and coarse sea salt evenly over the dough. Bake for 15 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and puffed around edges. Serve warm or at room temperature.

 

My next goal is to forge my way into the world of "wild yeast" where you actually cultivate your own yeast. This is a common practice with sourdough breads in particular. When you make a starter, it's just a matter of creating the right condition to "awaken" the yeast that already lives on fresh grains. And, in the case of sourdough, collecting the bacteria that makes it sour. One you have a yeast culture, as long as you leave some remaining, the fungus yeast, which grows asexually by budding or fission, will be your own little renewable food resource in the household fridge.

But for those of you who still want to buy from the store, I recently learned that there's a secret code for bread freshness - the color of the twist tie or plastic fastener! Who knew?! If you have a poor memory, I would stash this easy key in your wallet. Or you can remember that bread is delivered daily from Monday to Saturday and the color code progresses alphabetically by day - Blue, Green, Red, White, Yellow. Neat.

Sowing Seeds for Spring

 Friday was a gorgeous day fit for gardening and cupcakes - so that's what we did. I dusted off my tools from the shed, ran my fingers through some good dirt, and enjoyed a dozen cupcakes with my friends. Warm days in winter always have this effect on me. I am thrilled to shave my legs and wear shorts, I want to plant things, and I want to be outside all day from the moment the sun comes up - it's suddenly so easy to forget the frigid days of winter that will probably return any day.

I have high hopes for a fertile spring garden this year, so I'm getting a jump on things. I've begun first with my herb garden including Mint, Spearmint, Chamomile, English Thyme, Cilantro, and Rosemary. Oh and little catnip for Charlemagne.

  For now I'm using some egg cartons as transplant trays, and I'll let you know how that works out. I found them for free, and I imagine they'll be great as long as I don't leave them out in the rain and they don't disintegrate before I am ready to transplant.

We also planted two saplings - an Oak Tree and a Redbud. These came as "swag" from the Green Life Expo in Athens a couple weeks ago, so they may be two dried out by now, but I have hope for some big trees one day!

 Here are a couple bonuses from my Organic Agriculture class. After winter pruning, a bunch of raspberry cuttings - Anne and Heritage varieties - were being thrown away or taken home by my classmates. Again, I wasn't super prompt about planting them, but I hope they can still become adjusted to a new home and produce lovely berries for the summer. On the right is a sugar gum log inoculated with shittake mushroom spawn. Each inch in diameter means one year of  production, so I'll have about four Falls of fresh shittake mushrooms. It's a wonder more people don't grow their own mushrooms really.

 

Now that I think about it, this post is less about anticipation for spring and more about my inability to get things planted in a timely fashion...which brings me to the daffodil bulbs I purchased in the fall. For Georgia's planting zone, these ought to have been planted from October to December. I planted a row of 7 just in case, along with an Aloe plant. Don't you love the color of Aloe plants? It's such a fresh light mint. But beware, these plants have many sharp and unfriendly edges. Now that I think about it, they look almost extraterrestrial.

 

 
Finally, it's important to keep the momentum of your garden going all year long by maintaining a compost bin and thinking about establishing a cover crop to facilitate Nitrogen fixation in the soil after a season of production. I put together a very simple compost box out of 4 pallets attached with nails and wire. By turning the mix every couple weeks and keeping it slightly moist, the decomposition rate ought to be about 3-6 months.
 
Out in the garden bed, I've removed all the remaining crops and planted Crimson Clover as a cover crop. Tiny plants are beginning to germinate that will grow for about 4 weeks. These should then be dug out and turned under before they go to seed. If allowed to decompose for another 4 weeks, the Nitrogen fixated during their growth will be reincorporated back into the soil.

Pizza

Homemade pizza is one of those things that always serves your deepest craving. Not only is it delicious and generally much better than pizza you'd buy, it's a great way to use up vegetables left in your fridge, it's easy and fun to do with friends, and it allows for endless creativity.

I want to share some of my past pizza concoctions while reminding you that honestly, the sky is the limit when it comes to homemade pizza. I can't really imagine any combination of ingredients that would not work out based on any reason besides personal distaste.

First, the crust - thanks to grocery stores like Trader Joe's and Publix, it is as simple as a quick drive to the store and a couple of bucks to obtain ready-to-bake pizza dough. This is a great option when you're in a hurry. One time I even used an Irish Soda Bread mix as a dough. Of course, if you have time to make dough from scratch there are many options that require varying lengths of time to rise, such as this one, this one and this one, just to throw out a few. Everyone has a favorite recipe, so I encourage experimentation to find the best for you. Personally, I like the taste of homemade dough better than premade, possibly due to the use of bread flour or maybe just because it's rewarding to make your own. Keep in mind that homemade dough can be kept in the fridge about 3 days and in the freezer for up to 3 months. Be sure to defrost overnight in the fridge or on the counter for a few hours before rolling out and cooking.

The following dough recipe is one I used based on positive reviews, quick rise time and the inclusion of bread flour instead of all-purpose.

Quick Homemade Pizza Dough
Yield: 1 large crust

1 (.25 ounce) package active dry yeast (Be sure to get Active Dry and not Instant!)
1 cup warm water (About 110 degrees F or about 2 minutes in the microwave)
2 1/2 cups bread flour, plus more to knead in if too sticky
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons white sugar











Instructions

1. In a small bowl, stir to dissolve yeast in warm water. Let stand until creamy, about 10 minutes.
2. In a food processor with a dough blade or a in a large bowl, combine 2 1/2 cups bread flour, olive oil, salt, white sugar and the yeast mixture. Beat or stir well until a stiff dough has formed. Cover and rise until doubled in volume, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350F.
3. Turn dough out onto a well floured surface. Form dough into a round and roll out into a pizza crust shape. Add flour as needed to keep from sticking. 
4. Cover with your favorite sauce and toppings and bake in preheated oven until golden brown, about 20 minutes. 

And now, what you've all been waiting for, here are some of my favorite pizzas of the past. Remember, beyond toppings, you are welcome to experiment with cheeses and sauces. Mozzarella, shredded Italian cheese mixes (Asiago and Parmesan, for instance) and feta are always good for cheese. For sauce the options are boundless: regular store bought pizza sauce, plain canned tomato sauce, alfredo sauce, just olive oil and no sauce, pesto, or any homemade concoction. And for me, the addition of minced garlic, caramelized onions or mushrooms is never a bad idea, as well as seasoning with various spices such as basil or oregano.

1. Broccoli, garlic, feta, shredded mozzarella, and pesto
2. Olive oil (no sauce), mozzarella discs, basil and fresh or sun-dried tomatoes
3. Roasted sweet potatoes cut into discs with a bit of brown sugar, caramelized onions, garlic, no sauce, and shredded mozzarella
4. Mushrooms, sliced bell peppers, red onion, Mozzarella or Italian shredded cheeses, and pizza sauce
5. Spinach, mushrooms, pizza sauce, and garlic

Don't forget calzones!

6. Tomato sauce, thinly sliced ham, pineapple chunks, and Italian shredded cheeses

7. Nutella, marshmallow fluff, Bing cherries, and bananas

 

 

Emily and Charlie passed out from how good pizza is!

What are some good pizzas you've made?

Last Remnants of the Garden

Last week I pulled up the last bits of my winter garden to prepare for cover crop planting. Incredibly I found a treasure trove of radishes that had flourished through the cold. Some were HUGE!

It was a true garden mystery though because I had thought, according to my little garden chart, that these were turnips the entire season. I am still baffled, even though I know it must have just been my mistake.

So what does one do with pounds and pounds of radishes? I will offer some suggestions.

Now that's a lot of radishes

My whole life, I never thought of cooking radishes. To me, they were simply a delicious snack to eat raw, perhaps in a salad. Then one day I roasted a radish (just tossed whole in olive oil, salt and pepper; cooking a 400 degree oven until fork tender), and my world changed. It started when I purchased a "Turbo radish" at the farmer's market - which is I tell you a strange beast. The woman who grew it suggested roasting. In my opinion, regular radishes are less bitter when roasted, but these crazy black radishes are worth a try.

Anyways, the point is, cooked radishes are delish. And one day in the shower I imagined how yummy caramelized radishes would be, ala caramelized onions. I had purchased some farro the week prior at the local co-op, so I planned a caramelized radish and farro dish. Farro is a pretty cool grain with a unique light crunch about it.

1. Prepare the farro according to package directions. Use stock if you want more flavor.
2. Carmelize slices of radish, half a red onion or a few boiler onions, and garlic in olive oil at medium-low heat with a little salt and pepper and maybe a touch of brown sugar. Feel free to add any vegetables you have on hand and season to your pleasure. This is very much a "contents of your fridge" kind of meal.
3. Stir together and serve. 

 

Has anyone ever caramelized radishes or other vegetables besides onions before? I am very interested in perfecting this sweetening art.

Ode to Butternut Squash

Butternut squash is truly a revelation. It's practically candy but a vegetable nonetheless, and although practically nothing need be added to make this squash delicious, there are so many various techniques and spices that can take this humble winter veggie into other worlds of flavor.

Another great thing about winter squash in general is that it's one of those few items you can buy at the grocery store and leave in your fridge for a while. When the time is right, this off-the-cuff purchase will be waiting happily in the crisper to save your dinnertime cravings.

On a night like this, I suggest the following simple roasted recipe.

Roasted Butternut Squash 

Butternut squash, cubed
2 Tbsp. Olive Oil
1/2 Tbsp. Curry Powder
1/2 Tbsp. Oregano
1 Tbsp. Muscavado/Natural Brown Sugar
Salt/Pepper

Instructions:
1. Set oven to 400.
2. Toss squash cubes in olive oil and the spices.
3. Roast for about 20-30 minutes, or until soft to the fork. Always watch check often after about 15 minutes because based on the size of the cubes and your desired tenderness, the time will vary. Serve by itself, as a side or on top of rice or lentils.

Saffron gatherers on a Minoan fresco

Now if you have time to prepare, go to the store, etc., I whole-heartedly suggest this butternut squash risotto recipe which literally knocked my socks off the first time I tried it. The depth of flavor in this risotto is incredible. With the exception of the saffron, which has throughout history remained among the world's costliest substances, this recipe feature fairly simple ingredients at a low cost to produce a large bulk i.e. delicious leftovers for days! P.S. I don't recommend leaving out the saffron. It's lovely, aromatic and has no true flavor substitute among other spices. Also, this recipe can be made vegetarian by using vegetable stock and no pancetta. I have made it this way many many times, and it is still so great, but if you are a meat-eater I recommend using the pancetta because it really does add a great base to the flavor of the whole dish. 

Butternut Squash Risotto

1 butternut squash (2 lbs)
2 Tbsp olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 cups chicken stock (Vegetable Stock if vegetarian)
6 Tbsp (3/4 stick) unsalted butter
2 ounces pancetta, diced (Can be eliminated if vegetarian)
1/2 cup minced shallots (2 large)
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice (10 oz.)
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon saffron threads
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan

1. Preheat the oven to 400F.
2. Peel the butternut squash, remove the seeds, and cut it into 3/4-inch cubes. (I find cutting the squash into cubes first and then cutting off the hard skin to be easiest.)
3. Place the squash on a baking pan and toss it with the olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.
4. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, tossing once, until very tender. Set aside.

5. Meanwhile, heat the chicken stock (or veggie stock) in a small covered saucepan. Leave it on low heat to simmer. (If you are lacking stove space, just heat it up in the microwave. It's important to add warm stock to the warm risotto instead of cold into warm.)
6. In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, melt the butter and saute the pancetta and shallots (or just shallots) on medium-low heat for 10 minutes, until the shallots are translucent but not browned.
7. Add the rice and stir to fully coat the grains with butter. Add the wine and cook for 2 minutes.
8. Add 2 full ladles of stock to the rice plus the saffron, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Stir, and simmer until the stock is absorbed, 5 to 10 minutes.
9. Continue to add the stock, 2 ladles at a time, stirring every few minutes. This is a recipe that take patience, so be prepared to give it time and attention to stir. When the mixture seems dry, add another ladle of stock, and repeat until the rice is cooked. This can take from 30 minutes to 1 1/2 hours, depending on luck is all I can gather. I don't know why, but this particular risotto recipe always takes longer to cook through than other risottos. But it's well worth the wait.
10. Remove from heat, add the roasted squash cubes and Parmesan. Mix well and serve with a glass of the white wine you used in the recipe.

Winter Warmer

Cozy up on a chillly, rainy night with a winter warmer and a game of Scrabble. Winter warmers, according to Beeradvocate, feature "Big malt presence, both in flavor and body. The color ranges from brownish reds to nearly pitch black. Hop bitterness is generally low, leveled and balanced, but hop character can be pronounced. Alcohol warmth is not uncommon." I became interested in sampling a warmer after reading this New Year's (Alcoholic) Resolution article on Page 18 of the latest Athens Food and Culture. Sam Smith features gorgeous label art in a 550mL bottle with gold foil atop. We tried both the Winter Welcome (delish) and the Taddy Porter. The porter is very dark with a great yet subtle chocolate flavor. I suggest both warmly.